Monthly Archives: March 2011
Solve it while I sleep #3
Day 7
A long-distance train journey is a great opportunity for meditation. Especially when you find yourself without a phone signal most of the way and unable to connect to a carrier that will give you data at all. So after waking at Spokane (where a drunk guy was getting thrown off the train) and managing to check in to Foursquare, I was then cut off pretty much all the way across Montana and North Dakota. I managed to make a couple of voice calls and send some texts but that was all.
So I could focus on what was going on inside my head with breaks occasionally to see what was outside the window.
Outside the window, I saw lots of ducks, geese, pheasants, some big black bird with a white head, lots of cattle, horses, several deer and a pack of coyotes wandering across the whiteness of the plain.
It's great to get the chance to just sit and breathe and let the world go by. This is the thing with rail travel on this scale, there's so very little to do and so much time to do it in. Get up and walk about, use the rest rooms, get a coffee, sit in the Lounge car and get a better view and listen to some increasingly slurred conversation, read, write, take photographs and shoot video out of the window, not think too much about what's coming up.
So that was my day.
Day 6
Ann and Kevin were the second couple I stayed with who I'd never met before. But most bizarrely, they, like Philip and Tania in SF were an Anglo-American couple. What are the chances? I land in two couple's lives randomly and unexpectedly and both the guys are English. And, I just realised as I was writing this, they both work with wood – Philip's name is Wood and he's a furniture designer. Kevin is a carpenter. He built the sauna that I enjoyed using first thing on Sunday morning.
Yes – he built a sauna in his basement. I woke on Sunday to the unexpected pre-breakfast questions “Have you ever had a sauna? Would it drain you too much to take one? Would you like to?” To which of course the answers are “Yes, No, and Yes Please, Thank You”
So that's how I found myself naked in a stranger's basement. I'd joked with people beforehand that those people who perceived great risk in what I was doing, believed I'd end up being tortured and cut up in little pieces in somebody's basement. This was not torture, it was exactly what I needed. I then got the next exact thing I needed, a little walk in the fresh air to see Puget Sound from high up and then a 6-egg omelet with hash browns and lashings of coffee at Beth's Cafe – a great and popular greasy spoon, which we had to queue up to get into.
The rest of the day was spent being driven around Ann's list of must-see's. These lovely people, friends of an old friend I've only seen once or twice myself in the last 20 years, took me on a fantastic tour of the city. We went to Gasworks Park and looked out across the lake, we saw the Concrete Troll under the bridge and the Fremont Lenin. We wandered around the locks and went to see if there were any salmon climbing the fish ladder. (Not yet, expect Steelheads in a few weeks). We walked through Pike Place Market and bought some provisions for my next journey. Everywhere we went, Ann had somewhere to check of the list, it was delightful. I had to at least stick my head inside the first Starbucks, stuck it in far enough to see that they have a huge pig made out of coffee beans hanging over the inside of the front door. We watched the fish-sellers chucking their wares around. And then went for a fine cup of coffee at a nearby Tully's and grabbed some wifi so that I could feel a little grounded before the upcoming 43-hour marathon.
They delivered me to the station in plenty of time, but we found that of course the train would be starting late (mechanical problems requiring the fitting of a new engine) So I let them get away after I'd given them (and the surrounding passengers) a quick ukulele rendition of “When Somebody Thinks You're Wonderful”. Then it was hugs and handshakes and I was off to find my place in the line. In the end the train only left about 30 minutes late.
I had two seats together for the rest of the day – plenty of room to spread out and try different sleeping positions, mostly foetal variations. As we rolled along the Puget Sound I looked over at the islands on the other side and realised that I was suddenly close to the San Juan Islands where Podchef used to live. I wanted to tweet him, but the network service gave out and then I was asleep.
Day 5
Saturday was my first full train day. I was on board for just about 24 hours. Having snoozed for a couple of hours at a time and checked in on Foursquare when I could I got up just north of Redding and had a look around. Went up to the observation car and sat and watched forests and rivers and lakes roll by. We were still low down and out of the snow so the contrast of the red earth and evergreen trees was startling. In my geographical ignorance, I'd never noticed how much of California there still is, north of San Francisco – and certainly had no idea how beautiful it was. As we started to climb we started to see snow until everything was covered.
I began shooting video more seriously now that I had my tripod attachment and could keep the camera more still. Lots of cool, calm almost motionless landscapes, but also, I'm guessing, capturing some of the sounds of the train – I haven't listened back yet to see what I've got, probably won't till I get back. We had to wait for a freight train at Lake Odell which was frozen over.
We ran about 2 hours late for most of the journey. Every now and then we'd make up a little time and then we'd hit a spot where we had to wait for another train or repairs to tracks. So the forests of southern Oregon were lovely but the train was tense with everyone getting off from Eugene onwards knowing that they were going to be late and those of us heading as far as Seattle facing up to the possibility of getting in after midnight. Soon after Eugene there was another bit of slow track and then it started to get dark.
I was tired and together with worrying about what was going to happen I started to get irritated with the conversation around me. The young guy sitting next to me, it turns out was going to Portland to start a cross-country cycle ride. The older guy in front knew all about why he was doing it all wrong and was telling him, over and over – he was taking the wrong route, it was the wrong time of year, he hadn't done enough preparation – the poor kid was OK, but he was clearly starting to waver and not trust the research he'd already done. Of course, I don't know, he might not have done any research at all and this guy might have just saved his life, but I read it much more as tired old big mouth wanting to put the young upstart in his place.
They both got out in Portland, lots of people did. Portland certainly looked beautiful in the dark, lights shining from downtown as we crossed the water. I gave up and went to sleep after we left – there was no point in me worrying. I sent an e-mail to Ann and Kevin to let them know my ETA. They came back and said they'd expected that and it would be fine. We finally rolled in at midnight. As it turned out, my friends had underestimated the Friday middle of the night Seattle traffic and so I got to spend ten minutes or so fending off the eager attentions of taxi drivers, before Ann appeared in the big yellow coat she'd promised and we got in the car.
Now I had to be sociable again. I was ready…
Day 4
Friday was my last day in the Bay Area. Briefly after breakfast, I managed to IM with my daughter (who was just about to have her tea) – that felt good, to be able to just chat for a bit, hear what's going on for her, let her know that I'm OK and having a good time.
Robert then gave me a great last day. I said goodbye to Maryam and the boys and we headed to do an interview with a software company – Robert's stock-in-trade. Driving along, I saw the sign for parc “umm… that's parc parc?” “yeah” it was weird that even after being in the area for 3 days it took for me to see that building, just another office building of course, but y'know… parc, for me to really understand that I was actually in Silicon Valley
Robert drove in and around the building for me “yeah over there's the room where they invented the mouse, there's a bit of original PC ethernet on the wall down there”
The place we were actually visiting had no parking spaces “that's how you can tell someone's doing well – no space in the parking lot at 10.30am”
After watching Robert do his stuff, we headed back to USVP for the last few TED Talks including Roger Ebert's brave piece about losing large parts of his face and therefore his voice. And the one about the schoolteacher and the World Peace Game.
Robert then had to take part in the Gillmor Gang which was an hour or so that I could sit quietly do some thinking, catch up with people online and record a couple of video pieces – including one of reassurance to my dear mama.
We had the rest of the afternoon to explore. I got the guided tour of Stanford, a sneaky peak of the self-driving cars, stopped off and saw the Golden Spike and the Rodin garden, – I needed some groceries for my meals on the train up to Seattle and I also needed to get a tripod attachment to hold my N8. Robert took me to a camera store. I spent $14.15 on my phone holder. He spent a little bit more than I did and got some bits of kit that I'm sure plenty of fanboys will be asking him about it at SXSW. So then we finished off with a lightning tour of Mountain View “there's Google” the Computer History Museum “there's a big chunk of ENIAC, there's the original server rack from Google”
And then suddenly we were back at Palo Alto Caltrain station and shaking hands and saying goodbye till next weekend and I was on my own again.
It's only a short hop down to San Jose. And that's where I stayed for the next 5 hours because the train up to Seattle was delayed by nearly 2 hours. I got my rail pass, my ticket to Seattle and the next one too to Milwaukee. And I sat and watched the world go by. I was just nodding off when the call came and we were shepherded onto the train. I sat down, took out my contacts and slept.



